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LINEAPELLE HIGHLIGHTS ON MATERIALS FW 17/18

The last edition of Lineapelle has been full of innovations. We would like to give you a report about a few relevant materials that have been displayed during the fair.

LEATHER

  • Finishes designed to celebrate the qualities of leather, more precious finishes are become increasingly popular compared to fake “vintage”
  • Return of materials which can be described as mirror finishes: may be more glossy or more matt, smooth or textured, classic or patterned prints, all designed for footwear to create new effects with reflected light
  • Laminates and metalized effects which play on the trend for aging, with a soft look, or cracquelé drum washed leather with a bas-relief effect  
  • Glitter applied to crumpled surfaces, both printed and plain, with a wrinkled effect created with irregular incisions, padded by hand, but also with glitter and splashes of colour.
  • Glitter with a mosaic effect, also under cracquelé, to give a feeling of movement to the cracks
  • Natural nappa normally used for gloves and drum-dyed, also sewn with wool to create a “rounded” effect 
  • The world of suedes has seen enormous research into ways to make the raw material more precious, with remarkable effects, doubling, prints, precious or elaborated finishings 
  • Considering the “great classics”, we saw a large amount of work to structure the raw materials even more, with more consistent tanning, hand-boarded leather, striking finishings and fat-liquoring to create personalised effects.
  • We very much enjoyed the remarkable work undertaken to offer new livreè, taking a modern look at the classics. The overall impression is that there is more interest in crocodile.
  • Significant interest in the development of metal-free tanning
  • Very thin matt glazes and liquid laminates, also brush off
  • Brushed materials with a soft handle and brush off to give the idea of movement.
  • A desire to use hand crafting to personalise the product and take it as far from an industrialised look as possible
  • Hand-faded boarding with chiaroscuro effect
  • Leathers with fluorescent effects activated with neon lights, also UV light reagents
  • Eel skin with aluminium to model different shapes
  • Reptile bonded with layer of down
  • Flocking on python prints in vibrant colours
  • Prince of Wales design enriched with pearling
  • Squared printing with baroque designs
  • Different bonded materials: leather matched with elastic textiles, microfiber, wool, synthetic fur and lace
  • Machine-washable leather, with special wet blue tanning to create a look like denim
  • Fur cut to create geometric designs
  • Metalized snakeskin with shimmering effect, in wintery tones
  • Printing with aged metalized finishing 
  • Aged cracquelé, glossy, colour of old copper
  • Metalized and felted snakeskin with degradè nuances
  • Glazed Prince of Wales print on suede, also with paisley patterns
  • Cavallino in strong colours which almost become highlights; prints with degradè animalier motifs, romantic black and white florals
  • Two-colour, colour block, bonded with wool, velvet, fur
  • Houndstooth design cut into glaze
  • Double face with aged cracquelé 
  • Monochrome camouflage suede, design created only with different types of texture to give a textile effect
  • Snake skin with geometric print and pop motifs
  • Degradè fox fur, interesting coloured patchworks, very bright and lively, fur in neon tones
  • Scaly leather with animalier designs, printed with monochrome pixels
  • Thin and felted nappa 
  • White degradè made with felted wool; spray effect, also metalized silver
  • White tanned leather painted on the surface with black, then cut, creating an attractive 3D effect
  • Research and development into more ecological materials

TEXTILES 

  • Smooth, simple or embroidered velvets, in contrast with geometric and floral all-over motifs, hand painted
  • Thick-pile velvets, flatted with metallic laminates, with crumpled effects. Monochromes, animated with baroque embossed prints, embroidered embossing. Velvet and chenille effects. Long-haired flock effects in small geometries. Contrasting dip-dye effects also on velvet bases
  • Weaves use velvet, alternating with patent leather or metalized leathers. Playing with alternated denim and velvet in the warp and the weft
  • A lot of attention for technical textiles, three-dimensional processes on nylon, masculine micro-geometries in polyester for sneakers. Subtle wear and tear effects, brush off also on technical fabrics.
  • Summer padded nylons are light, not too thick; they have light textured from the underlying microfiber synthetic fur 
  • Waterproofing, nabuk effect waxing, glazes with natural rubber on canvas. Attractive versions in coated cotton when woven with wool
  • Rubberising which partially overlays textiles make them more interesting, seen as drops, floral or brocade designs and stripes
  • Worth noting pinstripes and tartans, also when re-imagined or re-invented
  • A place for boiled wools with their soft touch typical of cashmere, double face and stretch, lasered felts, heat formed, oxidisation effects on surfaces. Very beautiful new needlepoint and bouclé wools, also with maxi houndstooth or floral designs done in negative
  • Technical fabrics were very popular, also on micro-geometries in two or three colours for sneakers
  • Processes which make textiles more precious with laminated, shimmering, luminous and reflective effects
  • Curls of metallic polyester, and lurex glitter, also with different sizes to create three-dimensional effects of metallization and light
  • Three-dimensional materials were very much in demand, including jacquards in micro-designs; these are made with a thread that shrinks in the wash and gives a subtle wrinkling effect
  • Textiles with effects “stolen” from the technologies used in other sectors: rubberizing, high frequency, 3D embroidery, new pleats and materials with finishes done in the tannery
  • PVC, ecological PVC, transparent or opalescent, also worked with striking pleats.
  • Interesting to see camouflage-like effects created with prints, like stains or tone-on-tone corrosion, from monochrome jacquards to a range of stains created in finishing
  • We noticed that the elasticated consistency of fabrics is still very much sought after

SMALL PARTS

  • Looking beyond the usual shapes for studs, visitors were interested in shapes such as spheres, hemispheres or more unusual forms, such as stars
  • Coloured metalized finishes, light shimmer effect in bright pastel colours, pearling. More precious handmade finishings, with star-shaped diamonding on semi-spherical studs.
  • There was interest in natural looks, like marbling or pearl and wood effects
  • Beautiful finishings which look lightly worn, aged or washed. Sizes are micro or macro
  • Interest was seen for unusually shaped chains, even if groumette styles are still the most requested. Looking at finishings, simple gold was also seen with brass, vintage galvanisation, opaque looks and coloured metallization
  • Plexiglas shoulder straps alternate coloured and glossy parts with those in natural tones, like tortoise. Beautiful details made with metallic chains enclosed in transparent coloured PVC
  • High performance zips, with brass anti-scratch chains, hard wearing. Focus on zip pullers, in large sizes, made with unusual materials such as natural resins. Baroque or floral laser effects both on zip pulls and velvet zip tapes. Great popularity of zips mounted on leather and for more technical zips with a distinctly sporty look 
  • Satin tapes become trompe-l’oeil thanks to the printing of complex knits 
  • Preference in laces for sporty styles, covered in technical coloured small nets, retro-reflective, with contrasting rubberised aglets
  • Buckles and details in shiny gold, but increasing demand for brass, gunmetal and lead, in glossy and opaque finishes. Lots of square section shapes, but dimensions are fairly contained. Beautiful closures for bags in two materials, in wood and resin
  • Lots of contrasting colour blocks, with a pop inspiration, for swivels, magnetic closures and buttons
  • Attractive tassels in leather with long fringes and decorated with small knots of the same material, tone on tone. Also room for décor tapes and passementerie, chenille and lurex tapes, fur fringes, brocade tapes, animalier or floral elastic jacquards. Often made precious with metallic threads or finishes
  • The most important work was seen in what we might call “camouflaging” accessories with the same colours, playing with very glossy glazes to create highlights
  • Non-metallic but brilliant surfaces made more precious with the addition of studs and mounts - tone on tone, but always luminous – and new finishes “stolen” from clothing with flocking and velvety effects on the rigid surfaces of accessorie